Why Grow Your Own Tea Herbs?

There is a particular pleasure in stepping out of the back door with a pair of scissors and coming back with a mug's worth of something fragrant. A herbal tea made from leaves picked an hour ago tastes nothing like the dusty contents of an old teabag — it is brighter, sweeter and far more aromatic. That difference comes down to volatile oils, the compounds that give mint its coolness and lemon balm its citrus zing. They begin to fade the moment a leaf is picked, which is why garden-fresh always wins.

The good news for anyone in Britain is that the best tea herbs are undemanding. They thrive in a sunny border, a windowsill or a few pots on the patio, and a modest patch will keep you supplied from late spring right through to autumn. With a little drying, that supply stretches into the winter months too.

The Best Herbs for a British Tea Garden

You do not need a vast collection. Half a dozen reliable plants will give you plenty of scope for blending.

• Mint — the workhorse of the tea garden. Spearmint is mild and sweet; peppermint is bolder and more menthol. Grow it in a pot, always, or it will colonise the entire border within two seasons.
• Chamomile — German chamomile is an annual sown in spring that self-seeds freely; Roman chamomile is a low-growing perennial that doubles as a fragrant ground cover. Both produce the small apple-scented daisies we brew.
• Lemon balm — a generous, bushy perennial with a soft lemon flavour. It seeds itself about with enthusiasm, so cut it back after flowering unless you want it everywhere.
• Fennel — grow it for the seeds rather than the leaves. A sweet, aniseedy note that lifts any blend and helps settle a heavy meal.
• Lemon verbena — needs a sheltered, sunny spot and a bit of winter protection, but its flavour is the most intensely lemony of all.
• Sage and thyme — more usually thought of as culinary, but both make a warming, savoury cup that comes into its own in cold weather.

Harvesting at the Right Moment

Timing matters more than technique. Pick mid-morning, once the dew has dried but before the sun grows fierce — that is when the essential oils are at their peak. For leaf herbs such as mint and lemon balm, harvest before the plant flowers; once it puts its energy into bloom, the leaves turn tougher and less flavoursome. Chamomile is the opposite: wait until the flowers are fully open and the petals have just begun to bend backwards, then pick them on a dry day.

Take no more than a third of the plant at any one time, and cut stems just above a pair of leaves so the plant bushes out rather than sulking. Rinse lightly and pat dry if there is dust or the occasional visiting insect.

Drying and Storing Your Herbs

Speed and darkness are your friends here. Slow drying in bright light bleaches the colour and takes the aroma with it. For small quantities, tie stems into loose bunches and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, airy cupboard or loft. Chamomile flowers are easier spread thinly on a rack or a sheet of newspaper.

If you have a dehydrator, set it to around 35–40°C. An oven works too, on its lowest setting with the door propped ajar, but watch it closely. However you dry them, the test is the same: a leaf should crumble cleanly between your fingers rather than bend like leather. Strip the leaves from the stalks, keep them as whole as you can, and pack them into airtight glass jars away from light and heat.

Label each jar with the name and the date. Most dried herbs keep their character for around a year; after that they are not harmful, just dull. If a jar smells of hay rather than mint, it is time to start again.

Blending Your Own House Tea

A useful rule of thumb is three parts base herb to one part accent. Beyond that, trust your nose — smell the jars side by side before you commit.

• For the evening: equal parts lemon balm and chamomile, with a scattering of fennel seeds for sweetness.
• After a heavy dinner: peppermint, fennel seed and a pinch of dried orange peel.
• For a cold morning: sage and thyme with a sliver of dried ginger.
• For summer: equal parts spearmint and lemon verbena, brewed strong and poured over ice.

Do keep a little perspective: these are pleasant drinks, not medicines. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or taking regular medication, check with a pharmacist or doctor before making a habit of any single herb, particularly sage.

Brewing a Proper Cup

Use one heaped teaspoon of dried herb, or two to three teaspoons of fresh, per mug. A teapot or a mug with a saucer placed over the top is ideal, because covering the vessel traps the volatile oils that would otherwise drift away with the steam. For mint, lemon balm and verbena, let the kettle go quiet first — water at around 90–95°C is kinder to the delicate aromatics. Chamomile, fennel seed and sage can take water straight off the boil.

Steep for five to seven minutes, then strain. A squeeze of lemon and a little honey suit most blends, though chamomile is arguably best left alone. Fresh herbs do not keep, so brew only what you plan to drink — and if you find yourself with a glut of mint or lemon balm in high summer, a tray of ice cube trays filled with strong infusion will give you instant iced tea for weeks.